Today, however, thanks in part, to the evolution of the stonewashing technique invented by a Canadian from GWG, jeans are the uniform of the urban cowboy. They are accepted in almost every setting, worn with T-shirts on lazy days and dressed-up with a blazer on nights out with the boys. Simply, jeans have become the cornerstones of a wardrobe.

“The thing about denim,” offers Jason Guralnick of Swank Boutique, “is that you can wear it anywhere. You can dress it up or down. I’d say that the average guy should have between four and five pair of jeans these days.”

If some of the stats I’ve read are correct, then you probably already have four or five pair. If you don’t, or if you’re ready to clean house and upgrade your denim stock, keep these things in mind.

Price
I remember buying a pair of Diesels for $75 and thinking it was silly. Now five years later, I just bought a pair for over $300. These days, a good pair of jeans will run you between $150 and $400. Limited editions can send you well beyond that. Most of what is done to achieve a certain look is by hand. The more embroidery or distressing, the higher the price tag. If you’re looking to keep the price down, buy jeans manufactured in Europe, not the U.S. Paper Denim & Cloth once ran between $180 and $250. Now that they’re importing, the price has dropped. I just bought a pair in Toronto for $150. The same cut cost me $200US three years ago.

Look
You’re not going to wear what you don’t think looks good, so honesty with yourself is key when choosing jeans. Are you going to look like your trying too hard? Will the jeans suit your style? Guralnick suggests that men have jeans ranging from a nice, dressy, dark pair, maybe with a bit of a coating (sheen), to a real beat up pair for hangover days. The others should fall in between with at least one pair of 8-9 oz denim for summer. Do you like the flap pocket? Try True Religions or MEK. Like the look of raw denim? Grab a pair of Nudie’s. Dig prints and embroidery? Ed Hardy and Rock & Republic are your brands. With the number of washes out there, you have more than enough to choose from, so grab what suits you and head for the change room.

Fit
There is nothing worse than uncomfortable jeans, so you need to establish whether you’re a low-rise or high-rise guy. If your hockey legs and ass fit into a straight leg or if they’re best draped in relaxed fit. Button-fly or zipper? Fitting is a matter of taste, but the rules are simple. Relaxed fit suits a more muscular or heavier build. Straight legs help slim you out. Skinny cuts are meant for skinny guys. Boot cut has always been king and will remain so no matter what the trend. Leg lengths generally fall between the 32-36 range, making it tough for the 6’8” giant and a hemming issue for guys like me.

Believe me when I say that jeans are here to stay. Next summer will see the introduction of the wide leg, possibly colour and definitely the re-introduction of acid wash. Raw denim will still be going strong, as will vintage, beat-up, distressed and light washes. So take your pick and conform.
—Shayne Stevens